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Rabu, 10 Maret 2010
Senin, 15 Februari 2010
Indonesian Male Batik Dress
Batiks design developed progressively throughout history. Change in motifs, colors and styles are consequences of exposure to various foreign cultures, by means of assimilation, trading even colonization.
Early batik design was developed in “keraton” (court) of Yogyakarta and Solo and considered the basic style of Javanese batik. This “batik keraton” initially influenced by Hinduism, brings in the use of motif like “garuda” (sacred bird), lotus (sacred flower), “naga” (the dragon) and “the tree of life”.
Islamic value that later assimilated by the Javanese forbids the illustration of living human or animals. Influence of Islam urging the development of geometrical pattern, floral motifs, as well as modified (stylized) living animal.
The “batik keraton” style also characterized by the use of traditional color of soga brown, beige, cream, black, white and indigo blue. These earthy colors derived from the use of natural dye in the early age of batik making. Although nowadays chemical dyes are uses most, this earthly traditional color still use to characterize the batik of Solo and Yogyakarta. This probably is the matter of taste, since earthly colors are considered to be elegant by the people of Solo and Yogyakarta.
Contrary to the “Solo-Yogyakarta” style, the north coastal cities like Pekalongan, Cirebon, Demak and Semarang utilizing mostly a series of bright hued colors. This is due to the use of chemical dye available in high variation of color. Batik makers of the harbor cities are easily get supplied by merchants of China, Arab, India and Europe. Thus ensure the exploration of batik in various colors.
During the Dutch colonial era in Indonesia, right between1840-1910, Dutch and European entrepreneurs introducing the design of “batik buketan” or “bouquet batik”. This vivid colored design consists of arrangement of flower and plant that grew in Holland like tulips, chrysanthemums, and grapes. The design was mainly developed in the northern coastal cities.
Chinese also contributes the development of batik design right during the imperialism era of Indonesia. Along with their trading activities and later settlement in northern Java coastal cities, they bring their own decorative style into batik. Among these “batik cina” distinctive motifs are dragons, clouds, bamboo, and phoenix bird (motifs they have used to decorate pottery). Chinese also introduces the use of pastel color complementing the bright color.
“Batik sudagaran” emerge during the booming of batik market in Indonesia at the end of 19 century. The design was fashioned by the “sudagar” or merchants of batik around Solo and Yogyakarta. It focused on modification of classic “batik keraton” that stylized to the merchants taste and probably to the taste of the market in that time. Few among this sudagaran design are modification of “tambal” into square pattern, and “parang” with insertion of snail like motifs.
Batik “Java Hokokai“is specially designed batik ordered and supervised by the Japanese during their colonization over Indonesia (1942 – 1945). The design features beautifully drawn flower on classic “parang” or “lereng” background. The most distinctive of the motif is “kembang jepun” (literally meaning: flower of Japan) which is the famed Sakura flower.
The spirit of independence brings the new design of “Batik Indonesia”. It was in the early 50’s when President Soekarno (Indonesia’s first nation leader) encourage the creation of new style batik design. The result is a blend of various style, mainly between “keraton” style of Yogyakarta and Solo with “northern coastal” style of Cirebon and Pekalongan.
source:http://batikcorner.com
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